Humboldt History

Dominion over the earth — that has been man’s goal since he first learned to use simple tools. Dominion, unfortunately, too often equates with destruction. Such is the history of the Lost Coast, though this land did hold out much longer than most undiscovered territories.

Several points along the Northern California coast were found as early as the late-1500’s, but Humboldt Bay was not “officially” discovered until three hundred years later. Because the exceptionally narrow entrance to the bay lay protected behind a shallow bar, a phalanx of jagged rocks and an almost continuous wall of tall breakers, sailors could not see the glass-like waters of one of Humboldt’s finest treasures.

Though it remained lost to the Europeans for so long, Humboldt did not suffer solitude. The first inhabitants of this undiscovered land were the Yurok, Hupa and Wiyot Indian tribes. The Mattoal, Lassik and Wailacki Indians lived in Southern Humboldt. These people of the earth were too busy living with the land, too busy fitting themselves into the scheme of Nature’s layout to bother themselves with gloating over land acquisitions. The indigenous peoples of the Lost Coast were individualistic. They cared little about what lay beyond the boundaries of the fog, or the local mountain ranges. Seldom did a member of any local Indian tribe venture more than thirty miles away from home during his or her lifetime.

From the outside, the Japanese, Chinese and the Russians were, most likely, the first to land upon the shores of the Lost Coast, though their contact with this part of the world was only by chance, perhaps from being blown off course during a journey, or because the captain of the ship was not skilled enough to avoid such dangerous seas. Their trips to Humboldt matter little, though, because they did not reach these inhospitable shores to further political causes, or to make their travels a matter of public record.

Truth and fiction become obscured even with records, however — especially when the recorded events happened more than four hundred years ago. At the time it is written, history is filled with the bias of the writer. Over time, especially after four hundred years, the lines of truth become blurred with hopes and romantic visions.

The most reliable records indicate that a Spanish expedition, led by Portuguese explorer Don Juan Rodriguez in 1542, was the first European discovery of the Northern California coastline. Cabrillo sailed from Navidad on June 7 and made his way as far north as the bay at San Miguel. Whether he made progress farther northward is doubtful. Severe weather -- a trademark of the Lost Coast -- forced the expedition back to calmer southern seas. Bartolome Ferrelo assumed command of the Cabrillo expedition, and ventured as far north as Point Arena. One year later, Ferrelo reached as far north as 40 degrees latitude, but his logs do not mention anything that resembles Humboldt Bay.

On route to discover the fabled Strait of Anian — the mythological Northwest passage — and with royal sanction to raid whatever Spanish galleons he might encounter, Sir Francis Drake sailed the Golden Hind to a point that he recorded as being farther north than 42 degrees latitude. Severe weather forced him to put in along the Oregon coast, after which he again sailed south, though nothing in his logs mentions the discovery of safe harbor along the Lost Coast. Historians believe that Drake may have discovered Buhne’s Point in 1579, but there is no proof that the famous explorer discovered Humboldt Bay.

In 1595, Sebastian Rodriguez Cermeno launched another Spanish expedition and reached Cabo Mendocino, named by the earlier explorer Ferrelo, in honor of Spanish Viceroy Mendoza. Cermeno sailed as far north as what is now called Trinidad Bay, though he did not anchor because of the dangerous rocks and the unyielding tide. Cermeno is credited with mapping the Lost Coast with great accuracy, yet his logs and maps failed to mention what is now called Humboldt Bay.

Not until 150 years later was the Lost Coast “officially” discovered. Juan Bodega found safe anchorage at Trinidad head on June 9, 1775, and took formal possession of the area two days later by planting the Spanish flag and erecting a cross with the inscription, “Charles II, by Grace of God, King of Spain..” June 11 was a Trinity Sunday, and thus the newly discovered landmark was christened Trinidad. Bodega remained at harbor until June 19th, after which nothing much is known until 1793, when Vancouver made his way to what he called “Trinidad Nook.” By 1800, Trinidad was well known to seafarers as the safest place to harbor beyond Shelter Cove, before sailing farther north to the Oregon Coast.

In 1806, it is said that Nicolas Resanof, under direction from the Russian American Fur Company, attempted to enter Humboldt Bay but could not, on account of the small entrance and the treacherous waters.

That same year, the honor of being the first captain to find the almost hidden entrance of Humboldt Bay and to sail her waters fell to Captain Jonathan Winship. He originally called it the “Bay of Indians.” The native people of Humboldt, however, did not like to intrusion of the white man, because the European explorers had begun to decimate the population of sea otters in a quest for fur. It is said that, during his travels to Humboldt, and then farther north to Alaska, Winship took in a catch of nearly 5,000 sea otters, and a catch of nearly 3,000 when he returned in 1809.

By 1812, fur traders lost interest in the Lost Coast because the decreased sea otter population made for unprofitable trips to the Humboldt shores. Hudson Bay Fur Company representatives stopped near Humboldt Bay in 1831, but they were unimpressed with the region and sailed on without dropping anchor.

The promise of gold in California changed the state forever, and Humboldt was not to be left out of the rush for wealth and quick fortunes. The gold diggings that began to tear up the Central Valley had spread north, and gold miners began to look for a way to transport gold from the headwaters of the Trinity River back to the Sacramento Valley, without having to tote their heavy loads across the rugged landscape of Northern California.

On November 5, 1849, a handful of gold miners set out from Rich Bar near Weaverville and headed toward the west, in a direction to where the Indians had reported a large bay. The party consisted of David A. Buck, Dr. Josiah Gregg, Thomas Sebring, Charles C. Southard, J.B. Truesdell, Isaac Wilson, L.K. Wood, and a Mr. Van Duzen. They set forth on their quest without knowing that they would spend the next month traversing some of the wildest, most grueling land on the earth. They were forced to ascend and descend mountains throughout the journey. To add to the rigors of their trek, the miners cold not ride their horses or mules, because the trees and the undergrowth grew to thickly for easy travel. At times, the men could travel no more than two miles a day, cutting their way through the thick foliage and fallen trees that were often twenty feet in diameter.

A week after setting out, the miners found the south fork of the Trinity River, which they followed to the main stem of the Trinity River. Game was scarce, and within a week the men were in danger of starving in the dreary North Coast winter.

On December 16, the tired party came within earshot of the surf. The next day, they came upon the mouth of the Little River, which they followed north, stopping finally at Trinidad to rest for several days.

On a clear day, you can stand at the site where Ferrelo erected the engraved cross and see a glimmering splinter of Humboldt Bay. Lost Coast winters, however, rarely allow glimpses of the sun, and it is a safe assumption that in mid-December, the miners failed to see their goal through the fog and the heavy rain. From Trinidad, they were but twenty miles north from the bay. But from Trinidad, they set out north, away from the bay, and instead made their way to Big Lagoon.

They returned south to the Little river, which they crossed, and reached the Mad River, so named because of a fracas between Gregg and the rest of the party. Emotions were high, because the men were tired and hungry. Gregg wanted to remain upon the river a while longer to make scientific observations and to make surveys of the land. The party did not want to linger, and when they set off, Gregg lost his temper and screamed obscenities like a banshee at his fellow travelers. Thus, the river got its name.

Gregg managed to get back with the party, and on the night of December 20, 1849, they stopped and camped on the dunes of the north peninsula, near what are now called the towns of Samoa and Manila. While searching for water, David Buck peered through the darkness and saw a body of water. The following day, the party stepped from the might towering sequoias and discovered Humboldt Bay by land.

They camped and spent Christmas where Arcata is now located, and then continued south with hopes of reaching San Francisco. Quarrels erupted between the men on which was the best route to reach their destination, and since they could not come to a compromise, the party split into two groups. Gregg, Van Duzen, Southard and Truesdell decided to make their way by following the coastline. Buck, Sebring, Wilson and Wood followed the Eel River, and found themselves faced with more danger than they wanted. The weather in the mountains grew fierce. Snow fell, forcing the men to stop and camp for five days. On January 26, Wilson and Wood became separated from their two comrades, and came face-to-face with a den of grizzly bears that were foraging in a small prairie near what is now called Redcrest. The promise of meat in winter made the men and the animals anxious for one another. The men devised a plan in which they would fire their rifles upon the bears, and then run for the nearest tree. Wilson made a kill and clambered up the nearest tree. Wood, however, after downing one bear, decided instead to remain in the clearing to reload his weapon for another volley. He did not have time enough to discharge a second shot before a third bear attacked him. Wood’s only recourse was to use his rifle as a club, which gave him enough advantage to scramble toward the tree where his partner sat perched upon a branch. But as he climbed, the persevering bear charged and knocked down the tree, sending both men tumbling onto the ground. Wilson managed to scramble up another tree. Wood was not lucky, though only by luck was he not fatally mauled by the grizzly that “suddenly lost interest and wandered off.”

The two men, because of the severity of their wounds, were forced to remain at the clearing for two weeks, after which they received medicinal help from a local Indian and were reunited with Buck and Sebring. A debate ensued about whether to continue along with Wood, or to leave him to die. The decision to strap Wood to a horse was made, and the party made their way to San Francisco. Isaac Wood eventually returned to Humboldt by ship and settled in Uniontown, which is now Arcata.

The other party also suffered hardships. The four men found the going too difficult at Cape Mendocino, and turned inland across the mountains toward the Sacramento Valley. Upon nearing Clear Lake, Dr. Gregg died. Southard and Truesdell and Van Duzen reported that their companion died from starvation, though most folks with an interest in the history of Humboldt believe that Gregg was murdered, and buried without a trace near where he died. Gregg’s three companions made their way safely to the Sacramento Valley in late February, 1850.

That spring, not knowing of the land discovery of Humboldt Bay, the Laura Virginia sailed from San Francisco and came upon mouth of the Eel River, which crewmen could see from the masthead. They could not see the entrance to Humboldt Bay because of the continuous line of breakers that conceal the small channel that opens into the bay. Continuing north, Captain Ottinger of the Laura Virginia sailed to the mouth of the Mad River, and of Little River, and then anchored in Trinidad for awhile. Ottinger’s further explorations took he and his crew to the mouth of the Klamath River, and as far north as Point St. George, which is now Crescent City. The Laura Virginia returned south to Trinidad.

Ottinger dispatched a shore party that hiked to Humboldt Bay on April 3, 1850. They camped upon the site where once stood the Humboldt lighthouse, and then returned to their ship to report their discovery of the “lagoon” where the Eel River emptied into Humboldt Bay.

On April 9, Second Officer Hans H. Buhne and three crewmen of the Laura Virginia attempted to cross the channel of the bay in a schooner. The boat was nearly swamped a dozen or so times, but Buhne managed to steer his crew through the heavy breakers and into the bay. Five days later, the Laura Virginia party established Humboldt City, just north of what is now Buhne’s Point.

The Laura Virginia was commissioned by the Laura Virginia Association, for the purpose of securing and taking possession of any discovered lands that the ship’s officers, and the on-board trustees of the association deemed of agricultural or commercial value. The fifty passengers aboard the Laura Virginia were equipped with provisions for two months, and gold digging machinery.

Thus began the settlements of the Lost Coast. Towns began became to blossom from an influx of pioneers. It took little time for Humboldt Bay to become a major port along the North Coast. Humboldt City eventually disappeared, and Union became Arcata. The town of Bucksport came and went quickly, giving way to Eureka. Towns like Kneeland and Korbel prospered during the lumber heydays.

Much good came from the discovery of Humboldt Bay. But with the discovery of a new and uncharted territory comes the threat of man’s dominion over the planet. Gold digging and the lumber industry wrought massive destruction throughout Humboldt.

Trees bigger in diameter than the perimeter of most houses in Humboldt once grew so close to the shoreline that the waves of the mighty Pacific Ocean once lapped at their roots. Those days are gone. Though the lumber industry has suffered near-debilitating losses and mill closures, many spots in Humboldt remain bare from where the magnificent sempervirens sequoias were stripped from massive patches of land.

Still, so much beauty remains in Humboldt to captivate the folks who live upon the waters and in the forests of the Lost Coast. Most of us who live here now will never leave.